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• Tuesday, January 13
• 5:30 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.
• Municipal Building, Room 241

CentreBike January Meeting Agenda
January 8, 2026 at 5:30pm-7:00pm
State College Borough Building, Room 241
https://centrebike.org/zoom

Agenda
Welcome

Treasurer’s Report

Stakeholder Reports
Centre Region Council of Government
Penn State/Bike Den
State College Borough
Municipalities/Government
Centre Region Bicycle Advisory Committee

Public Comment
Bike Commuter Survey
https://forms.gle/Jxh8dmF9BRosoMA46

Elections

Old Business
CentreBike Candidate Survey
7th Annual Cranksgiving Results
Light Up The Night Results
Storage

New Business

Updates
Website/Logo

Adjournment

Next Meeting March 12th, General and Exec

Agenda

Welcome

Treasurer’s Report

Stakeholder Reports
Centre Region Council of Government
Penn State/Bike Den
State College Borough
Municipalities/Government
Centre Region Bicycle Advisory Committee

Public Comment

Old Business
CentreBike Candidate Survey

New Business
Centre Region vs Centre County
Notification of Elections 2026
Treasurer
7th Annual Cranksgiving – 10/25

Updates
Events
LionBASH
Fall Bike Anywhere Friday
Ask A Cyclist
Happy Valley Towns Series Expo

Upcoming Events
Oct 14 – Biking In the Borough of State College
Oct 22 – Biking After 50
Oct 25 – State College’s Seventh Annual Cranksgiving
Nov 3 – Light Up The Night
Nov 18 – Winter Riding 101

Adjournment

Next Meeting January 8th, Exec + General

CentreBike October Exec Meeting Agenda
October 9, 2025 at 5:00pm-5:30pm
Centre Region Council of Governments
2nd Floor, Planning Room, 2643 Gateway Drive
https://centrebike.org/zoom

Agenda
Welcome

New Business
Bike Bells
Helmets – Housing Transitions
2026 Meetings

Updates
Website
Mailing List
Logo
Bike Lights
Laptop
Ironman Grant

Adjournment

If you’ve ridden with groups at all, one thing you’ve probably noticed is that the group either stays together well — everyone riding at the same pace — or it “rubber bands” — stretches out with faster riders out in front, the main “peloton”, and the slower riders bringing up the rear, contracting when (or IF) the faster riders wait for the slower.

The faster riders don’t often wait. I found that out the hard way when I first started group riding. I would show up all enthusiastic and ready to go and within the first fifteen miles of a 50 mile ride, all I was following was the line on the pavement. The group had dropped me long before. Fortunately, I knew my way home and finished the ride vowing to keep up the next week. And the next week, it happened again. And the week after that. And the week after that…

However, what I did notice was that I was going farther each week before I got dropped, and eventually I was able to hang on and keep up.

So, one way to get better? Pick a group ride you know is faster than you, and try to stick with the group as long as you can. You will improve. A note on cycling etiquette, though. If you do pick a faster-than-your-ability ride to latch on to, be sure to tell the group leader and/or other riders you don’t expect them to wait for you if you get dropped. That lets them do their ride without worrying about you and you’ll be welcome the next time, rather than have the grumbling about that rider for whom they had to wait! If you’d rather have a more controlled improvement, read on.

I noticed it wasn’t the big climbs where I lost the group. Most groups, except the very hard core, will wait at the top of a big climb to regroup. I was losing the group on the little rises and gradual inclines, where the group kept up their speed and I fell further and further back, unable to close the growing gap between me and the main group.

Now, group riding is very advantageous because you save 30% or more of your effort on a long ride. That’s a big benefit, and it means you can go farther in less time. That leads to the ability to take longer and more varied routes, keeps you from getting bored with the same old routes, and you really get to know the back roads of your area.

That is, of course, if you can stick with them.

So, how do you get better and keep up? I already mentioned one way and that’s to just go and keep trying. But, you can also do a lot on your own.

You’ll need to find a loop route of 2-5 miles or so with enough undulating hills that are typical of the riding in your area. If you’re in the State College area, the Linden Loop is a perfect training track (Oak Hall to Linden Hall via Linden Hall Rd, and either turn around & repeat or for a more advanced training, return to Oak Hall via Rock Rd and Upper Brush Valley Rd. More on that below.).

Linden Loop – lower loop profile

There are four short rises along the section from Oak Hall to Linden Hall that are just enough to slow you down, and notice the whole distance is gradually rising. Your goal is to ride the section from Oak Hall to Linden Hall at a constant speed. What speed is that? Well, how fast does your group go? 12mph? 14mph? 16mph? etc… Pick a speed 2 or 4 mph under your intended goal, then give it a go.

As you ride the course, anticipate the coming rise and ready yourself for it. There are at least two ways to overcome these small rises: strategy or brute force. The strategic approach is to shift to a easier gear and increase your cadence – the speed your feet are rotating – just before you get to the rise. The change in gearing gives you a little more mechanical advantage and you’re shifting before you need to, so you can focus on moving your legs faster. The brute force approach is to stand up and power over the rise. Either works, so use the one that best fits your style of riding, or try both and see which works better for you. After you get over the hill, shift back to the harder gear and coast back to your target speed, but not faster – you want to “rest” and prepare for the next rise.

How did it go? Were you able to maintain your speed? If yes, bump up a mile or two an hour and try it again. If no, then back off a mile or two. Repeat this little exercise 4-5 times, and then take a nice, easy spin home and rest. Repeat this exercise two-three times a week until you’re at your desired speed. What you should find is that the little bumps seem to get smaller and that maintaining your speed gets easier.

What you are essentially doing here is intervals; small intervals, but intervals nonetheless. Next step? Try the whole Linden Loop, adding 4 more rises to your training. Now, it’s not likely (or necessary) that you’ll be able to maintain your speed on this section. Hill 5 is quite long, Hill 6 is quite steep, and hill 7 follows right on 6’s heels. The point is to get faster overall.

Linden Loop – upper loop profile

As you tackle the longer and steeper rises, you’ll find the smaller ones “flattening out”. You can also improve your breathing and power by doing standard intervals (lots of references on the web for those). When you do get back to the group, try hanging out towards the end of the pack, but not at the very end – having another cyclist in front of and in back of you is the most advantageous place to be aerodynamically. Most groups will forgive you not taking a turn at the lead, especially if they know you’re struggling. Keep back and in a few weeks you’ll be ready to take a turn at the front.

Now, get out and keep up with that group!

I had a few questions after the first hills article and I thought answering them would be a good start for this follow on.

Question 1 Some riders seem to stand up when doing hills and some sit in the saddle. Why is that? When should one stand going up a hill? Is there an ideal way (i.e. intermittently sit/stand sit/stand) to shoot for? What are the advantages and disadvantages of standing to climb a hill?

You get the most power generation sitting down and keeping your cadence up (using clips and a good “circle” technique, see #2). However, when you stand up, you do get the added benefit of all your weight pushing down on the pedal — as long as you’re lifting your other leg and not pushing it up too!!

Personally, I haven’t found that standing really gets me going any faster, and takes just as much, if not more, energy and I get winded faster. Even so, standing can give your hamstrings a break. I had a friend who was a very good climber and he mimicked some tour-de-france rider who claimed that changing your hand positions from the drops to the hoods to the top of the handle bars gave you six positions for climbing (those three positions and sitting or standing). He further claimed that each position used slightly different muscles so that you could get some good benefits by switching between them on a climb. Though I was never quite convinced of the theory, he always beat me up the hills. On a long hard climb, I’ll stand about 25% of the way, just for the change. Also, have you ever heard of “the magic shift”? Shift up to a higher gear or two as you’re standing, and shift back to a lower gear as you’re sitting down.

Question 2 Some riders do not have clips, or those straps on their pedals. Does having the right clips help the climb by lifting with one leg while pushing with the other? If using the lifting leg is helpful, what is the best technique?

Pedals with Toe Clips

Yeah, clips (or cleated shoes and “clipless” pedals) help engage more of your leg muscles than your quads — which is what your mostly using if you have just a flat pedal and no clips. Pedaling in a circle is the most effective way to use all of your leg muscles. Practice in a training stand, on a stationary bike, or on a flat section of road. Unclip one leg and try to make a perfectly smooth circle with the other leg. Then switch feet. It’s harder than you think, but a little practice and you’ll be spinning up faster that you can say “Contador!” If you aren’t lifting the leg that’s not providing power, you’re using your other leg to lift it up and using power that would otherwise be delivered to the wheels. Another tip I’ve heard and used is to move your foot like you were scraping mud off the bottom of your shoe using the pedal.

“Clipless”* cycling shoes have a number of advantages over your sneakers. First, the soles are quite stiff and this allows the pressure on your feet to be distributed and not concentrated on the ball of your foot. Secondly, the direct connection between the shoe and the pedal lets you use that upstroke to contribute the power of your hamstrings to the move the cranks. A properly fit cycling shoe along with a proper spinning technique will let you ride farther with less foot fatigue.

Cleats on shoes (left). Clipless Pedals (right).

This is also a good time to talk about cadence. Cadence is the number of revolutions per minute of the cranks (i.e., your feet). Racing cyclists generally have cadences of 80 to 110 RPM. Recreational riders are usually at 60-80 RPM. When you’re climbing a hill, your cadence will drop about 20 RPM and that’s normal. The advantages of keeping a higher cadence is that you are doing those circles using more muscles and that puts less stress on your knee joints. It’s just another factor you can experiment with to get a more comfortable and efficient ride.

*-clipless in the sense that the cage-style pedals that were the first attempt at providing lifting power were called “Clips”. Those were replace by “clipless” in which a cleat on the shoe is “clipped” into the pedal. The terms can be confusing because you “clip-in” with a “clipless” pedal.

Question 3 Should one ‘carb up’ prior to a climb or wait to get hungry?

Long climb coming up? Carb up about 10-20 minutes before you get to the hill. Otherwise, the sugars won’t be digested enough to help you. Shorter climbs? — not really going to help much as you’ll be over them before the sugar boost kicks in. Best to eat a good pre-ride meal with enough time to digest some of the food, since generally, the body will divert resources from digestion to support activity. That time will, of course, vary with individuals and some people may prefer to go out on an empty stomach. Whatever works for you. You can’t do long distances without fuel, however. Intense exercise requires 30-60g of carbohydrates per hour**– you can burn 6000 calories doing a century ride, so don’t neglect your need for calories when you’re out there riding. If you use gels, you’ll need to drink water with them or they’ll just sit there making you feel sluggish.

** – “Life cycle nutrition: an evidence-based approach.” S. Edelstein, J. Sharlin

Question 4 Any tips on clothing for climbing and descent?

Sounds like another article on “Why we wear spandex!” 😉 Avoiding the deeper issue of spandex for now, for cycling in general, you want tight fitting clothing to be more aerodynamic and to avoid flapping. If your clothes are flapping, that means you’re catching the wind and that sucks energy from your forward motion, meaning you have to put in more effort to go the same distance as your body glove clad riding partner. You’ll want good clothing that wicks away moisture, too, but I’ll save that for the “Why spandex?” article.

As for what to wear when, well, that’s very unique to individuals, the time of year, and the current weather conditions. I guess I’m being asked about cold weather because in hot weather you just wear as little as you can possibly get away with and not end up in jail. In colder and wet weather, you’ll have to experiment with what works for you. A wise, experienced cyclist once taught me to “go out expecting to be cold for ten minutes or so”. With activity, you’ll warm up soon and if you overdress, the rest of your ride you’ll be uncomfortably hot.” See the Winter Cycling Tips article on this site for some good guidelines for clothing to use in varying conditions (with a good deal of thanks due to the crew at Freeze-Thaw Cycles in State College. Caution: Spandex ahead).